John Clites

John Clites is a U.S. citizen currently living in Brazil under permanent residence. He divides his time between teaching English, writing about Brazil, and maintaining an on-again, off-again blog.

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Santos: Brazil’s Bustling Island City With Gardens Galore

Aerial view of Santos city, county seat of Baixada Santista, on the coast of Sao Paulo state, Brazil

A Tale of Two Cities, Part 1: Santos

Likely you’ve never heard of Santos. Almost certainly you’ve never heard of her sister city across the estuary, Guarujá. But every Brazilian has.

These cities lie about one hour southeast of the city of São Paulo. Each is situated on a large coastal island, and though each boasts lovely beaches, they are quite different in most other respects. For now, we’ll get to know Santos.

One Of The Best Cities In Brazil—But Don’t Take My Word For It

Santos is a bustling city of about 420,000. It is, in fact, generally conceded to be the busiest port in all of South America, servicing both container and cruise ships.

But Santos isn’t the grimy blue-collar town you might imagine. Around 2010, with the discovery of oil and gas reserves offshore, there was a sudden inrush of white-collar jobs. Also, many of the locals are well-paid professionals who actually work in the city of São Paulo, but who make the commute daily because they prefer to live in Santos.

Santos, in fact, regularly appears on lists of the top cities in Brazil in which to live. In 2016, Santos ranked #6 among the best cities in Brazil as determined by the United Nations, considering factors such as average level of education, life expectancy, and income. Santos was rated in 2021 as the best city in all of Brazil for those 60 and over. In a country where people are given to complaining about the government and services, everyone here speaks highly and proudly of Santos, of its superior services, safety, and high quality of life.

Santos is attractive as well. Nature has blessed her. Here, as in so many cities in southeastern Brazil, morros, those tree-covered cones of granite, so quintessentially Brazilian, nestle along the coastline. Broad beaches are washed by the South Atlantic. The unbroken gardens running along the beach are considered by Guinness to be the largest in the world.

I really like the way Santos organizes its beaches—and I’ve seen plenty here, up and down Brazil’s extensive coastline. The beaches are Brazilian, and yet organized—two words not typically used in conjunction. There are bike lanes, and the calçadão (broad beach sidewalk) for pedestrians. Permanent kiosks serve up seafood and icy-cold beers.

On the weekends, locals and daytrippers throng stalls and pushcarts, which offer everything from handicrafts to churros (wickedly delicious tubes of deep-fried pastry stuffed with chocolate or caramel cream). The beaches are broad, in many stretches a full two city blocks from the calçadão to the water’s edge. You stand surrounded by clutches of beach umbrellas of every color, and the sounds of laughter, volleyball, beach soccer, and, of course, the crash of the waves. Close to the kiosks, the smell of the sea gives way to that of churrasco, Brazilian-style barbecue. Ahhhh…

Paradise? Well, if I’m picky, the sand here has clay in it. It’s grayish in spots and isn’t as sugary soft as over in Guarujá, which we’ll visit soon enough. But there are certainly worse places to hang your hat!

If you tire of the beaches, Santos boasts an aquarium and a number of museums, including ones dedicated to coffee, the navy, fishing, soccer, and one specifically to Pelé, widely regarded as the greatest soccer player of all time, who played most of his career right here. There are botanical gardens and an orchid park housing a small zoo. You can tour the historic district (Santos dates all the way back to 1546) by streetcar. And there are good restaurants everywhere, offering seafood of course, but really almost any type of cuisine you might want.

Santos has generally fine weather, too. While there are four seasons, even in winter (June to August), daily highs often reach 70°F, and lows rarely fall below 55°F. The intermittent gusts from the south are invigorating. Summers are hot, but not oppressively so, and these days most homes have air conditioning.

Aerial view of Santos city, buildings on the waterfront avenue, county seat of Baixada Santista, on the coast of Sao Paulo state, Brazil.
Adobe Stock/Cifotart

Brazil, Only Better

I find myself liking the people here as well. They take pride in their city, and despite the continuing economic crisis in Brazil, the city provides a high level of services, and it is quite evident that the city is well managed, from garbage pickups to bus service to hospitals. You have to give credit to the paulistas for this.

Brazilians universally, if sometimes begrudgingly, acknowledge São Paulo to be the most organized and industrious of all the Brazilian states, and I would have to concur. It doesn’t hurt that Santos is one of the state’s—indeed, the country’s—wealthier cities.

While Santos forges ahead through the economic downturn, there are many apartments currently on the market. Many are second homes or investment properties, and their owners want to unload them. It’s not quite the buyer’s market you’ll find over in Guarujá, but there are definitely deals available.

Getting The Lay Of The Land Around Santos

Santos is located on a large island which it shares with the city of São Vicente—which was the first permanent Portuguese settlement in what would become Brazil.

The most attractive areas lie on the south side of the island, where the beaches are strung along an arc facing the bay and the South Atlantic.

While there are many nice areas here in which to rent or buy, the most desirable bairros (city districts) in my view are Boqueirão, which is centrally located, and Ponta da Praia, to the east, where the estuary empties into the sea. Another bairro to consider is Gonzaga, which includes the central shopping district; it’s convenient to everything, if perhaps a bit noisy. I would avoid the western end of Santos, adjacent São Vicente, as there are two favelas nearby.

Although the beach is undeniably attractive, I suggest also looking at properties one to two blocks inland, for a couple of reasons. The first is that in Santos, buses run along the beach avenue, so unless you get a unit facing away from the beach, you’ll have to contend with traffic noise and also dust if you are on one of the lower floors. And marisia, the salt air, slowly corrodes appliances.

By moving just a couple of blocks away from the beach, you’ll not only avoid these problems, but find cheaper rents, and also lower prices in pharmacies, markets, and restaurants. It’s the same in beach communities everywhere.

It’s a fairly straightforward matter to rent a furnished unit here for 90 days on what is termed a por temporada (for the season) lease. Standard long-term contracts in Brazil are for 30 months, but it is common these days to add a clause which allows the renter out after 12 months with no penalties. Traditionally, property owners have asked for a fiador, or co-signer, for long-term leases, but now most will accept a deposit held in escrow. Surprisingly, many owners actually prefer to rent to foreigners.

Santos has a lot to offer, so it’s not surprising that it’s a bit pricey—by Brazilian standards. But for those with dollars, pounds, or euros, Santos offers the most elusive of beasts: a truly desirable beachside location, at very reasonable prices.

The Best Neighborhoods For Expats To Buy In Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires Plaza

Buenos Aires is, without a doubt, one of the most cosmopolitan cities I’ve visited. Although most surnames are Spanish or Italian, the local populous is in fact quite diverse, which is reflected in the city’s culture and vibe.

The food is eclectic and much more varied than you’ll find elsewhere in Argentina, as is the music. The city is fashion-forward (and sometimes sideways). There is a strong …

An Overview Of The Real Estate Market In Mendoza, Argentina

View across the city of Mendoza, Argentina. Mountains in the background.

Located in western Argentina, Mendoza lies in the foothills of the Andes and receives rave reviews from those who visit. The area produces a variety of agricultural products, but it’s undoubtedly best known for its wines, especially dry reds. If you enjoy a glass of Malbec or Cabernet Sauvignon, you’ve likely had a taste of Mendoza already.

In part because of the many bodegas (wineries) here, tourism constitutes a large and growing portion of the economy. Tourism is fueled not only by wines, but also by a rich culinary scene, outdoor activities, lovely scenery, and mountain climate. Foreigners flock here in the summer (roughly December through February), and Argentinians come year-round. …

Continuing Our Tour Of Sao Paulo’s North Shore Real Estate

Sao Paulo Coastline North Shore Brazil

São Paulo’s North Shore—Part II: Caraguatatuba And Ubatuba

Last week I began a trip with you along the North Shore coastline of Brazil, south of Rio de Janeiro. We looked at Bertioga, São Sebastião, and Ilhabela and sampled a few real estate opportunities along the way. If you missed last week’s story, read it here to get up to speed on our journey.

The next two towns you should visit here in the neighboring state of São Paulo are Caraguatatuba and Ubatuba.

Caraguatatuba (population 113,000) is the largest town on the North Shore. It receives many visitors from São Paulo city and the interior, although some folks consider it to be a bit déclassé. The beaches in the city itself are not terribly attractive, but Mocóca and Cocanha, north of town, are nicer.

You’ll also find waterfalls nearby. And Caraguatatuba is connected by a good road, SP-099, to the area known as the Vale do Paraíba, which contains some lovely scenic towns in the highlands. So if you can’t decide between the beach and the mountains, Caraguatatuba might be a good choice for you. …

The São Paulo Coast: Great Beaches And Bargain Real Estate

Brazil Beach Near Sao Paulo

Brazil is renowned for its gorgeous beaches. At least once a year, during Carnival, you’ll see panoramic shots of Copacabana and Ipanema beaches, framed by those iconic granite cones, called morros.

But with over 4,500 miles of coastline, Brazil has much more to offer. South of Rio de Janeiro, in the neighboring state of São Paulo, you’ll find 370 miles of coastline. If you’re a beach bum at heart, then this area is worth a look for several reasons: …

Cali, Colombia: An Urban Setting With Plenty Of Green Space

An Urban Setting With Plenty Of Green Space

My workout over, I wipe my brow and walk over to chat with Sergio.

Sergio comes to Parque El Ingenio almost every day to sell agua de panela—water flavored with brown cane sugar and lime—to the folks who exercise at what I have come to call “The Flintstones Gym.” The equipment here is homemade. Barbells and dumbbells sport blocks of concrete rather than steel plates, but the equipment is well maintained and this is a popular spot in the mornings. The men who come here are serious about working out, but also friendly, and they welcome me with smiles and nods.

Sergio pours me a generous cup of agua de panela, and I fish a sweaty 1,000-peso bill—about 35 cents—from my pocket. I hand it over and we begin another of …

Curitiba, Brazil: Low Cost, High-Quality Life In The “Other Brazil”

Curitiba, Brazil: Low Cost, High-Quality Life
Curitiba: High Culture At Low Cost

If you are planning to move when you retire, likely you’ll strive to balance a high quality of life with a reasonable cost of living—which is not always an easy task. A city which offers both—though you may never have heard of it—is Curitiba, in southern Brazil. People from the south of Brazil often refer to this region as “The Other Brazil,” and, indeed, the region is more developed than the rest of Brazil, excepting São Paulo state. Curitiba, the largest city in the region at about two million inhabitants, has a great deal going for it, and scores high on the United Nations’ Human Development Index. The capital of the state of Paraná, Curitiba officially dates from 1693, although indigenous peoples lived in the area long before that. The name in Tupi means “pine nut land,” a reference to the area’s many pine trees and the food staple it yielded. Curitiba grew first on the cattle trade, then logging. Today it possesses a diverse economy based predominantly on services, and many international as well as domestic companies have facilities here.

Curitiba sits near the coast, but on a plateau 3,000 feet above sea level. While Brazilians sometimes comment on how “cold” the city is, the weather in Curitiba is generally moderate. Even in winter (June to August here), the average daily lows are still in the high 40s (F), and daily highs in the 60s.

Curitiba has a lot to offer. Topping the list would be its diverse ethnic roots, which have created a culturally rich city. Consider this partial list of municipal parks: Portugal Woods, Italian Woods, German Woods, and Japan Square. All of these ethnic groups, plus Poles and Ukrainians, contributed significantly to the makeup of Curitiba today.

Curitiba hosts an array of cultural events each year. These include FeiArte, a large arts and crafts fair which each year highlights a different country. For foodies, there’s …

Valencia, Spain: Food, History, And Affordable Property

Valencia, Spain: Food, History, And Affordable Property

Spain has long been a popular destination for casual visitors and retirees alike. A convivial culture, generally agreeable climate, reasonable cost of living, and superb food are just a few of the reasons for Spain’s perpetual popularity.

But Spain is quite diverse—really more a loosely-knit group of largely autonomous and disparate comunidades more so than a single country. Faced with such diversity, where should you begin your explorations?

One of my favorite cities is Valencia. Although it is Spain’s third largest city, with a population of around 800,000 (double that in the metro area), Valencia feels smaller. It has a more relaxed ambience than either Madrid or Barcelona, and it’s considerably cheaper than those larger cities, as well. But don’t imagine that you have to give up a lot just because Valencia comes with a lower price tag. Not at all.

Valencia lies on the Mediterranean on a stretch known as the Costa del Azahar, or Orange Blossom Coast. It is easily reached either by direct flight, or …

Beautiful Beaches And Property Bargains In Cabo Frio, Brazil

Beautiful Beaches And Property Bargains In Cabo Frio, Brazil
Brazil has approximately 4,700 miles of coastline. As you might imagine, it has quite a few nice beach towns. For my money, Cabo Frio is among the very best. Cabo Frio, which means “Cold Cape,” lies less than 100 miles up the coast from Rio de Janeiro. Cabo, at around 175,000 permanent residents, is the largest town in what is known as The Lakes Region (Região dos Lagos in Portuguese). Here a string of freshwater “finger” lakes and brackish lagoons lies just inland from the South Atlantic shore.

The region’s topography means two things: lots of seafood, and lots of water activities. Accordingly, Cabo is a popular vacation spot, and in the summertime (December to February), tourists flock in not only from Rio but from as far away as …